As things cool down, and the fare on the table becomes more hearty, it’s time to break out the big reds. Rich full-bodied Cabernets, soft Merlots, and Shiraz are the perfect match for chicken casseroles, beef braises and Lancashire hotpots.

This is the time of year when the offerings from some of Australia’s best loved wine districts truly shine. Reds from the Barossa and Coonawarra regions, Aussie superstars overseas, are fine cooler weather tipples.

Right here in Victoria, the northern area of Rutherglen is often regarded as good for fortifieds, which are some of the best in the world. Muscat and Tokay grapes grown there achieve high levels of sweetness and spice. Yet the climate there also makes for some ripper big reds.

Sunshine and temperate weather allows many grape varieties to develop full and complex flavours. Reds such as Shiraz and the lesser known Durif develop the kind of firm natural tannin structures that lovers of big reds crave.

Durif is one of the area’s quiet stars. The vine is now virtually nonexistent in France, and almost exclusive to North East Victoria. Its lack of popularity may be due to the patience required to enjoy it. Drink this wine young and you’ll most likely find it overpowering and brash. Cellar it for ten to twenty years and you’ll think tears from Bacchus himself have fallen into your glass. A great Durif stands up extremely well against a bold Shiraz in the noble tannin stakes. Deeply coloured, firm and flavourful with a long finish, Durif is a big, big wine that wants to be shared with a bubbling beef stew or ably prepared game. Freshly killed, perhaps, by a brawny, sun-kissed farm boy built like a shearing shed. If you have the patience, Durifs with a little bit of age can be bought at fairly reasonable prices. But don’t drink them straight away, every year of age makes a pronounced difference in this variety.

Durif isn’t the only stranger in town, either. The entire region lends itself to the production of other less well known grape varietals like Marsanne, Viognier, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, and Touriga.

One of my favourite dishes to serve with a bold red like Shiraz is slowly braised lamb’s shanks in a rich gravy served with cheesy mash and green beans. A zesty osso bucco is also a good match for a ballsy Shiraz.

Lasagne commands a decent Cabernet Sauvignon, like brawny sun-kissed Rutherglen farm boys command a second look. Same goes for spag and meatballs, which has started to pop up in my repertoire of Autumnal faves. The secret behind an excellent meatball is, in fact, the wine. Mix veal and pork mince with raw egg, a dollop of tomato paste, a handful of breadcrumbs and the merest splash of the Cab Sav you intend on serving with the meal.

Put away your whites, decline your Pinot Noirs, and enjoy the cold with a loud and warm classic Aussie red.

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